The Right Way to Hide TV Cables

Nothing ruins the clean look of a wall-mounted TV faster than a bundle of cables dangling down the wall. But hiding cables isn't just about aesthetics. Done wrong, it's a fire hazard and a code violation. Done right, your TV looks like it's floating with zero visible wires.

Here's how professionals hide TV cables properly, safely, and legally.

Why You Can't Just Stuff Cables in the Wall

I see this DIY mistake all the time: someone cuts two holes in the drywall, drops their power cable and HDMI cables down, and calls it done. The problem? Standard extension cords and power strips aren't rated for in-wall use.

Here's what happens when you ignore electrical code:

• Fire risk: Power cables can overheat when enclosed in walls without proper ventilation
• Code violations: Inspectors will fail you, and it voids your home insurance
• Resale issues: Home inspectors flag it during sales, killing deals

The Professional Method: In-Wall Power Kit

The right way to hide TV power cables is to use a recessed power kit or have a licensed electrician install a new outlet behind the TV. Here's how it works:

Option 1: In-Wall Power Kit (DIY-Friendly)

An in-wall power kit includes:

• Recessed power inlet behind the TV
• Recessed power outlet near the floor
• Rated in-wall cable connecting them

These kits are code-compliant because they use a low-voltage pass-through design. The actual power cable stays outside the wall, just hidden behind the drywall.

Pros: Relatively affordable ($40-80), DIY-friendly if you're handy
Cons: Still requires cutting drywall, some kits are bulky

Option 2: New Outlet Installation (Best Solution)

The cleanest solution is having a licensed electrician install a new outlet directly behind your TV. This involves:

• Running proper Romex cable from an existing outlet or breaker
• Installing a recessed outlet box behind the TV
• Ensuring everything meets electrical code

Pros: Cleanest look, fully code-compliant, no visible wires at all
Cons: More expensive ($200-400), requires a licensed electrician

Hiding HDMI, Optical, and Low-Voltage Cables

Unlike power cables, HDMI cables, speaker wires, and other low-voltage cables can be run through walls legally. Here's the proper way to do it:

Step 1: Plan Your Cable Route

• Measure the distance from TV to components (cable box, soundbar, etc.)
• Check for studs, electrical wires, and plumbing using a stud finder
• Plan a straight vertical drop when possible

Step 2: Cut Access Holes

• Cut one hole behind the TV (centered where cables exit)
• Cut another hole near the floor (behind your media console)
• Use a drywall saw and cut neatly

Step 3: Use In-Wall Rated Cables

Not all cables are safe for in-wall use. Look for cables marked CL2 or CL3 rated. These have fire-resistant jackets and meet code requirements.

Standard HDMI cables from Amazon? Most aren't rated. Buy proper in-wall HDMI cables if you're doing this yourself.

Step 4: Fish Cables Through the Wall

• Use a fish tape or glow rod to guide cables down the wall cavity
• Avoid crossing electrical wires (interference risk)
• Leave some slack at both ends for adjustments

Step 5: Install Cable Management Plates

Instead of leaving open holes, install brush-style wall plates or recessed boxes. These:

• Give a finished, professional look
• Make it easy to add or remove cables later
• Protect cables from damage

What About Conduit?

For future-proofing, consider running conduit (a plastic pipe) through the wall instead of bare cables. This lets you swap cables later without cutting more drywall.

Conduit is especially useful for:

• Long cable runs
• Installations where you expect to upgrade equipment
• Commercial installations

A 1.5" or 2" conduit can fit multiple HDMI cables, speaker wires, and even network cables.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1. Running Power Cables Through Walls

We covered this, but it's worth repeating: never run standard power cables or extension cords through walls. Use a power kit or hire an electrician.

2. Using Non-Rated HDMI Cables

Standard HDMI cables aren't fire-rated. Spend the extra $10-20 on CL2 or CL3 rated cables.

3. Cutting Without Checking for Obstructions

Always use a stud finder and wire detector before cutting. Hitting electrical wires or plumbing is expensive to fix.

4. Not Leaving Service Slack

Leave 6-12 inches of extra cable at both ends. You'll thank yourself when you need to adjust connections.

5. Forgetting to Patch and Paint

If you're installing wall plates, make sure they're flush with the wall. If you cut exploratory holes that you're not using, patch them properly and paint to match.

The Professional Difference

Here's what you get with a professional TV mounting and cable concealment service:

• Licensed electrician coordination for power outlet installation
• Proper in-wall rated cables throughout
• Clean drywall work with patching and touch-up paint
• Cable management behind your media console
• Code-compliant installation that passes inspection

Most professional installs take 2-3 hours and cost $300-600 depending on complexity. Compare that to a DIY job gone wrong, which requires drywall repair, repainting, and possibly fixing electrical code violations.

DIY or Hire a Pro?

DIY is fine if:

• You're handy with drywall and tools
• You use a proper in-wall power kit
• You're only hiding low-voltage cables (HDMI, speaker wire)
• You have the time to do it right

Hire a pro if:

• You need electrical work (new outlet installation)
• Your walls have complicated framing or obstructions
• You want a guaranteed code-compliant install
• You don't want to patch drywall yourself